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lo_0l

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Posts posted by lo_0l

  1. 6 minutes ago, Gary Wilkinson said:

    Hello,

    Thanks for your follow-up!  I cut (wet tile saw) 3 rocket fins out of the purchased plate and used a high quality epoxy to bond those fins to the airframe of my rocket.  Then, sanded, cleaned (lint free cloth and acetone) to achieve a good "water break" surface on all six faces (both sides of 3 fins) of the fins, along with the relevant section of Carbon Fiber airframe.  Then went through the wet lay-up process (3 layers @ 0 degrees, 45 degrees, and 0 degrees) with the cut Carbon Fiber fabric, using West Systems resins, and finished with High Temp (450 F) perforated Release Ply and Breather Fabric, before bagging.  All done at a cool room temperature indoors!  Waited about 4 hours for the resin to reach a "leather" texture, disassembled the set-up and stripped off the Breather and Release Ply.  Frigging awesome result!!!  I achieved exactly the finish and final thickness I hoped for on the fins.  Will certainly require some finish touches on the leading and trailing edges of the fins for optimum aerodynamics, but that is easily accomplished.  As you mentioned I can see that the very best final finish will require wet sanding (800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit is my plan), finished with a hard clear coat.  In the rocket business smoother is faster, and faster is higher!

    Fortunately, I did a LOT of preliminary work to ensure a reasonably smooth process.  Did EVERYTHING possible ahead of the layup, and practiced the process over and over prior to the actual execution.  The use of electric scissors, and 3M 77 on wax paper to keep the cut pieces of carbon fabric from separating was pure genius!  A 2nd person to mix resin and hand me the cut sections of carbon fiber fabric (on wax paper), orientated correctly, was super helpful. 

    It took me way longer to build the wood jig for the lay-up procedure, along with the vacuum bag, than the lay-up and bagging process itself.

    My original question was just too basic, as it was obvious that a smooth surface like the Release Ply would certainly yield a better finished (smoother) surface than the Peel Ply.  My trivial question was probably a waste of time to your community!

    Regards,

    Gary


    No problem Gary,

    It's wonderful to have you here and part of the community! All skill levels are welcome and encouraged to join and participate here 🙂

    Do you have pictures of your project? It sounds really neat.

     

  2. On 5/3/2024 at 3:15 PM, Gary Wilkinson said:
    Hello,
    I am the newest of a newbie, but have spent considerable time reviewing all the available videos, etc. to learn as much as possible before placing an order for everything I need to execute my vacuum bagging plan.  Just need one simple clarification before proceeding.  The proposed set-up will be a wet lay-up (3 layers) on both sides of a part cut from a carbon fiber plate purchased from Rock West Composites, with vacuum bagging to ensure the best bond and greatest strength.  I want the finished part to have the best appearance and smoothest finish on both sides.  Will be using West System epoxy resin / hardener.  All work will be done at room temperature.
     
    My needed clarification is ..... it seems that the Rock West Composites Peel Ply (Econo Ply J or COMPOFLEX) would leave a textured or roughened surface best for later sanding, bonding, or painting.  That is NOT how I want the finished surface.  So, I don't think I want Peel Ply on the surfaces of the part.  Can I use a Release Film, with holes for porosity to move excess resin, and have the desired final result on the finished part?  Yes, I will be using Breather Fabric on top of the Release Film.
    If Release Film is the solution, which one (RELEASE EASE 234TFP or HIGH TEMPERATURE RELEASE Ply) would be preferable.
    Thank you in advance for your help!
    Gary Wilkinson

    For the very best finish you're going to want to wet sand and apply a 2K high gloss clear coat 

    Can you explain what you're doing with the plate a bit better? Are you trying to increase the thickness of the plate or are you trying to change the finish?

  3. 5 hours ago, Anna said:

    Ah, that makes sense then. We’ll see how efficient we can make our process with the current batch (~70) and consider the custom option for the next batch. 
     

    Thank you so much for your response!

    You're very welcome! Happy to help any way we can.

    I'll shoot you an email with a contact for a quote so that you can get that rolling.

    PS - do you have any pictures of what you're making? Love seeing what people are up to 🙂

  4. 16 minutes ago, Anna said:

    We purchased SKU: 35047-S and had them cut to 18in. These are jackets for rifle barrels so the taper is needed. We can clean them up pretty good with sanding but it's a bit labor intensive.

    The only way RWC is able to get the finish they do on those tubes you ordered is by sanding. They don't use a lathe to get the desired diameter. The tubes are sanded to the desired diameter. I don't think you're going to be able to get the finish it sounds like you're looking for without doing some sanding.

    Another option is that you could order these from Rock West Composites customized to your liking. It might be a lot easier for them to do it with their equipment.

    How many of these do you need to make?

  5. 4 hours ago, Anna said:

    Hi! The filament wound tubes are from Rock West composites. We’ve reduced rpms which has helped but any other tips would be appreciated.

    Machining composites can be pretty tricky! Can you share which tubes you ordered?

    Is the taper itself needed? Or are you just trying to hit 0.9"? Most tubes get sanded to size.

    Also, do you have a model of the part you're trying to make? The more information the better 🙂

  6. On 4/19/2024 at 12:34 AM, ENERSENS said:

    indeed. My basic flavor use non-woven glass fiber, in the range 0.5mm-3mm thickness. Picture attached.

    I experimented with many carriers to obtain different stiffness/thickness and fire resistance...

    skogar 1247.jpg


    Very cool! I passed this on to someone that might be interested 🙂

  7. 9 hours ago, ENERSENS said:

    I am looking into something like that:

    Heating: powerful microwave
    Length: around 25m
    Interior width: 1.2m - 1.8m

    The microwave part is a bottleneck when shopping but I spotted a handful of companies.
    I was wondering if the community could recommend quality brands who have experience of microwave heating.

    That I don't know. Is this for specifically for composites?

  8. Reminds me a good while back a lot of Quiznos Subs here in the US were going out of business and my old roommates and I almost bought one of their conveyor ovens 😆

    It'd help to know how big and hot you need it to be! Are you looking for something like a reflow oven?

  9. 19 hours ago, Bill Corbin said:

    Yes, we are thinking to X wrap the joints for strengthening purposes.

    Bill

    I don't think this would be the right application for this. It would probably trap moisture and bugs. Not to mention how you're going to cure it and protect it from UV long term.

    Why not just use lags/bolts? Are there any other solutions out there? This seems pretty non-standard. But then again, I haven't built a log cabin in a while 😄

  10. 6 hours ago, ENERSENS said:

    Hi there!

    I work with silica aerogel, more specifically composites using synthetic fibres as a carrier.

    I'd be happy to discuss about advanced thermal barriers, especially for space-constrained applications (i.e. thickness below 1 inch).

     

    Very cool! Do you have examples of the kind of synthetic fibers and thermal barriers you've made?

  11. 35 minutes ago, ricky914 said:

    I am trying to find a set (R&L) of Roush Fog Light Bezels for a 2013 Ford Mustang Roush Stage 3 in 2X2 Twill Weave CARBON FIBER. I have contacted several parts suppliers and they don't have them available. I also contacted Rock Composites and they said they don't make those parts. Does anybody know where I could possibly get a price for having them made?


    Hey @ricky914, welcome to Composites Community!

    Are your referring to the fog light surround?

  12. On 4/5/2024 at 2:02 PM, Bill Corbin said:
    I am considering the feasibility of using carbon fiber tape to reinforce wood log column-log beam interfaces by wrapping the joint. The logs are approximately 16” in diameter and are an integral part of a building structure. i can supply pictures if it will help.
     
    My questions are:
    • Does this idea have merit as applied to wood surfaces? If so:
    • What product would you suggest for the wrapping?
    • What epoxy is recommended? Are there instructions for applying the epoxy?
    • How can we calculate the strength of the wrapping? Are there strength tables?

     

    Sorry for the delay. Looks like my response didn't get posted!

    Pictures would help us better understand what you're trying to do! I'm not quite sure this is our area, but definitely willing to help if we can 🙂

     

  13. On 4/10/2024 at 7:13 AM, bgree said:

    Hey thanks in advance for any support, I am wanting to make some large tube parts from chopped carbon fibre,4”/100mm OD just over a meter long with small bends at each end, nothing complex, I have the parts in powder coated stainless steel so I can make a mold, however I can’t damage these parts so no sanding etc. I haven’t bought the materials yet to make a mold or lay and cure the fibre i’ve just been waiting to confirm my process. I have a rough idea of what I need and a possible solution (split mold with vacuum infusion maybe?) however if anyone has a better idea or links to some resources i’d be glad to hear it. I would also be keen to hear some product suggestions, i’m located Qld australia so preferably stuff I can get in decent quantities and shipped easily/picked up locally. these parts aren’t highly structural so I was thinking a few layers of chopped fibre should hopefully do?

    Hi @bgree, welcome to Composites Community!

    If you're making tubes chopped carbon fiber isn't the best choice due to the short random strands. A woven fabric where the strands interlock with each other would work much better. That said, you could use woven fabric as a base layer and chopped as an external cosmetic layer. Ideally, you'd want to find a chopped/forged prepreg if that's the look you want to go for. It exists but is very hard to find.

  14. 5 minutes ago, JT at Sequent said:

    Thinner is better in this case, it is just serving as a base structure.  The sensor tech being used in this experiment is to be laid into several layers within the build.  Having one layer as close to the inner surface of the tube as we can get is desirable.   We just want to make sure the tube will hold it's shape in the new curing process in the autoclave.  The question is mainly whether the base tube structure can do that since it has already been cured. 

    Thanks in advance for the great info!

     

    So long as you don't exceed Tg, you should be good. Do be aware of the exothermic reaction temp. Not just the autoclave temp. And definitely add some margin to ensure you don't exceed your limits.

    One thing you could do is insert a mandrel to hold the shape.

  15. On 3/27/2024 at 11:30 AM, JT at Sequent said:

    We’re looking at purchasing some 6” carbon fiber tube for some materials testing in an upcoming project.  Our needs would be to add additional material onto an existing carbon fiber tube, and send it through another autoclave process to cure the added material layers.  Our main point of interest is in the temperature handling ability of the manufactured tube section.  Our normal processes may go up to around 300° F to cure the new layers of fiber.  Would this exceed the tube’s limits?  What might those temperature limits be?

     

    Specific options we are considering from Rock West are…

    45568 in 25” length

    46326 in a 25” length

    35055-U in a 24” length

     

    I can see a max operating limit of 238° F on the 45568 and  46326 material specs.  We would naturally minimize the stress to the materials in the autoclave process.  What temperature limits could the materials handle respectively without degrading their original properties. We would naturally put the vaccum pressure on the inner and outer surfaces of the tube to avoid stressing the materials.  We just wonder mainly about the rigidity of the pipe structure in the process.  

    Any insight/experience in these matters would be most appreciated. 

    Thanks!


    Hey @JT at Sequent, welcome to Composites Community!

    The spec you're referring to is the glass transition temperature - the point at which the resin begins to change from a solid to a liquid.

    Is there a reason you don't want to start with a thicker tube to begin with? Additionally, if you need high-heat capabilities there are other resin systems that can be utilized.

  16. 5 hours ago, sarah4ley said:

    Does anyone know where I can source the following items:

    Nomex honey comb - 96kg 3.2 mm cell size, sheet thickness 10mm & 20mm, sheet size anything above 1m wide  

    Nomex honey comb - 144kg, 3.2 mm cell size, sheet thickness 10mm & 20mm, sheet size anything above 1m wide  

    I can find lighter weight but nothing over 48kg... any help greatly appreciated.

    UK based ideally

    Hi @sarah4ley

    How much do you need?

  17. On 3/10/2024 at 12:45 PM, Jo Yawn said:

    I am a fiber artist looking for a company or individual who will send me samples or remnants/seconds of Kevlar to use in an art project. Would love to have a yard or at least a 24” Square.

    I plan on weaving fibers through this product that I will use as a stabilizer. Is this something you would be willing to send me? I teach classes in my retirement do my funds are limited.


    Hi @Jo Yawn RWC has it for $73.99/ydIf you don't need genuine Kevlar, you could go with generic Aramid Fabric from some place like Amazon. You might also be able to pick some up at a fabric store or commercial fabric place.

  18. 11 minutes ago, Wiley said:

    I am not familiar with the brands, etc. I am wanting to test the fabric against rodents for use in keeping them out of structures. 


    How large of a piece do you need? 🙂

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