I am fabricating a 4-layer 3K plane weave carbon fiber panel (30 cm x 30 cm) using vacuum bagging and have Derakane Momentum 411-350DS Vinyl Ester Resin (1 Gallon). I need to know the following:

1. How much resin and catalyst/activator should I mix (in ml) for this panel?
2. How much resin mixture should be applied per layer?
3. Should I use a surface agent, and if so, how much should be added?
4. How much inhibitor is necessary, and when should it be added to the mix?
5. What are the recommended curing time and temperature for this resin system?
6. Should I use a breather fabric, and if so, what type and quantity?
7. How much weight or pressure should be applied above the composite during the vacuum bagging process?
8. How long should the vacuum be applied to ensure proper lamination and cure?

Thank you for your guidance!

I am working on creating a 4-layer 3K plane weave carbon fiber panel (30 cm x 30 cm) using vacuum bagging and hand layup (applying epoxy per layer). I have Epoxy 105 and Hardener 206 (From West Systems) available. Could you provide guidance on the following:

1. How much epoxy and hardener should I mix (in ml) for this panel?
2. How much epoxy mixture should I apply per layer?
3. Should I use a breather fabric, and if so, what type and how much?
4. What is the recommended curing time and temperature for this resin system?
5. How much weight or pressure should be applied above the composite during the vacuum bagging process?
6. How long should the vacuum be applied to ensure proper lamination and cure?
7. Should I add any surface agent and how do I do so? 
8. Do I have to degass the epoxy?

Thank you for your assistance!

On 7/10/2024 at 8:27 AM, Glassman said:

Hi,  I am making 2 parts.  1 part is a long mostly cylindrical.  The other part is just the top half of the first part but it has its own unique bottom.  I would like to be able to make a good quality mould for the long part,  and I would like to make just the top part in that same mould from time to time.  
 

The mould is a four-part mould with two sides, a top and a bottom.  So for the smaller part, I would need to add a bottom into the longer mould and secure it somehow. I have ideas about that, but I’m wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of information about using one mould for two different purposes if there is any

thanks!

@Wayne Taylor might have some ideas.

Hi,  I am making 2 parts.  1 part is a long mostly cylindrical.  The other part is just the top half of the first part but it has its own unique bottom.  I would like to be able to make a good quality mould for the long part,  and I would like to make just the top part in that same mould from time to time.  
 

The mould is a four-part mould with two sides, a top and a bottom.  So for the smaller part, I would need to add a bottom into the longer mould and secure it somehow. I have ideas about that, but I’m wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of information about using one mould for two different purposes if there is any

thanks!

1 hour ago, BenCarbonNovice said:

Dear community,

I am working on a very small carbon repair, and the challenge is that I have limited access to the repair area; it will be difficult to set up vacuum bagging.  When I say "small", I am referring to physically small.  The total carbon patch will be in the neighborhood of about 8mm by 15mm.

This repair is to be on a bicycle...the inside of the head tube.   For those of you that know bikes, this happened with a headset removal tool.  For those that don't know bikes, consider a screwdriver gouging out one layer of carbon.  The tube itself has two spots, one that is thin (about 3mm) and one that is thick (about 10mm).  The damage is in the spot that is thick.

If I had easy access to set up vacuum bagging, I would layer on a few new layers of carbon, alternate orientation between layers, and vaccuum it with proper bleeder and such.  However, setting up a a vacuum bag will be tricky.  Not only are there two different internal diameters, there are some complex shapes in there that get in the way.  Thus, I begin to ponder this idea...

What if I create a mold of the inside of my tube, and used that mold to fabricate the carbon patch, (properly, with epoxy).  Once my precise carbon patch is fabricated, I can use a cyanacrolate to glue it into place.

I see these advantages:

• I get unlimited "do overs".  When I make mistakes, I'm not working with epoxy on the inside of my frame.  The amount of carbon I'm using is really tiny (think postage stamp), and I have a yard of it.   That to say mistakes with the carbon are not a problem.
• Similarly, If I mess up when gluing the patch into the fame, I can use acetone to get it out and try again.
• Getting a vacuum seal will not be problematic, well at least not more problematic than normal.

I wonder about these disadvantages:

• Am I compromising structural integrity?
  I am inclined to think not.  The bond does not need to resist impact, just resist movement, so that the new carbon can share the load with the old carbon.
• Will there be a mismatch between the elaticity of the carbon, and with the glue?
  Again, I dont think so because... A)Dragon plate sells a cyanocrolate for joining carbon parts, and B) There appears to be a good elongation match.  MDS for each suggest about 2% for the superglue, and 1.7% for the carbon I'm using.
• It might be hard to the the mold just right.  But this is made up for by the unlimited do-overs.
• If there is a gap when I glue in the final patch, I won't know, although that would be true of an air bubble if vaccuuming in epoxy, so I'm not sure is more or less problematic than the

I recognize that I have limited experience, most specifically... I don't know what I don't know.  Thus, a dangerous place on the dunning-krueger curve.  (look it up if you are not sure what that is)

Lastly, this topic is not about whether or not this bike it is safe to ride.  In fact, I have even considered riding it as it is.  This frame is very robust, made by a highly reputable manufacturer.   The damaged carbon has been removed, and I don't see any cracks protruding into the healthy carbon, and most importantly, the damage is at a spot that is very thick.  I'm not concerned about a failure that would cause injury.  Rather, I want reduce the chances that a crack develops over time, leading to the point that I should retire the frame.

Ideas and suggestions that are not directly related to the superglue question are welcome.

Ben

 

 

 

Have pictures?