John Kimball

Welcome to the forum!
That’s not too odd a question, but there is much to be considered when laminating.
The quick answer is yes. You can laminate it as it is a basic woven fabric.  If you want to. You can laminate with cotton fabricHowever, the insulation aspect of the material is lost due the relatively low temperature of resin. Polyester can withstand about 125ºF with out damage, vinylester about 225ºF. Epoxies have a range based on the chemistry of the particular resin, but it ranges between 200º-400ºF. The 400º version is pretty special though. On average, most resins are in the 220º-300º range. Room temp cure resins are in the 220º range unless you buy a high-temp resin, but it will require a second “post cure” at higher temps to achieve the higher temperature properties. Rock West has a good selection of room and high-temp resins here: https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/shop/materials-tools/resins-adhesives/resin-systems/pro-set-resins
One other thing to consider is that insulation is achieved with spacing between the fibers. Once you close the gaps with resin, insulation is greatly reduced. Consider the fiberglass insulation used in homes. It’s quite lofty, and the thicker the insulation, the higher the R value. If you pack that insulation and reduce the loft, you lose R value. The same would be true of using fiberglass tape (header wrap, even if made from other materials) and laminating it.
Hope this helps.

Hi Brian. Welcome to the forum. 
This is a great question. For tubes that have fabric on them, we use different pattern fabrics to visually discern which tubes are standard, intermediate , or high modulus fabricated tubes. The entirety of the tubes are fabricated from unidirectional fibers, but the outer fabric layer (which is always standard modulus) will dictate which modulus fiber the tube is constructed from. If you look through our catalog, you’ll see a pattern emerge that you may not have noticed before. 
once a material is cured, it is very difficult to determine which fiber it was made from. This is away for us to visually keep them organized. 

Welcome to the forum.
The basic rule of thumb for inserts is about 1x to 1.5x the diameter of the tube. So a 1.125" ID tube would be at least 1.125" and 1.7". It also depends on the use of the tube. If it's just a static load and you just want it stay in place, a shorter insert will be fine. But if you will see some shear, torque, or flex loading, you will want a longer insert.
And as always, prep of both bonding surfaces is key to good adhesion. lightly abrade both surfaces (remove any shine so both surfaces are dull) and thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol.   

Welcome to the forum!
Your situation may require some redesign if possible.
The first thing you can do is to eliminate the 14 degree winds and replace as many plies as possible with 0 degree fibers. You don't want to use 100% 0 degree, as this will increase kinking potential. This can be difficult with filament winding, but not impossible.
If that doesn't work, then you will need to increase wall thickness as much as possible, as stiffness in a tube is increases as the tube diameter increases and wall thickness increases.

Unfortunately we don't know of any places that repair this type of issue. With everything bonded together the way it is, it would be extremely difficult to repair the surface without affecting the space between the inner liner and outer sleeve. If I remember correctly, the space between is critical for air pressure to allow the ball to pop off the bat. 
I did find this service company that may be able to help: https://www.bigdawgbatrolling.com/bat-repair.htm
We wish you good luck and hope we have been able to help you understand the nuances of composites.

The basic response to this question is, The bigger the diameter and the thicker the wall, the stiffer the tube becomes. 150kg is not a light load, and loading only in the center makes is more difficult. Also assuming that the load will never be truly static as the person will be shifting weight and possibly bouncing a bit, the load could be more than that momentarily. If you have an aluminum tube that works, you can simply replicate it with carbon fiber and it will perform better and will be 2x lighter. As this a potentially life critical situation, we don't want to recommend or tell you what will work. We do recommend that you do some physical testing to ensure that the tube you choose will work in a dangerous situation.